Escargot: Why the French Eat Snails in Garlic Butter

Escargot is the French word for edible land snails, a delicacy baked in their shells with garlic parsley butter. While often seen as uniquely French, snails were eaten long before France existed. The French perfected escargot by pairing mild, chewy snail meat with rich Burgundy butter, transforming an ancient food into haute cuisine.

Romans Ate Snails First

Ancient Romans consumed snails more than 2,000 years ago and even farmed them. Around 50 BCE, Roman noble Fulvius Lupinus raised snails on special diets of grain and wine to improve flavor. Snail eating spread across the Roman Empire and survived as rural food after Rome’s fall. For centuries, snails were considered peasant fare until French chefs elevated them in the 19th century.

Why Burgundy Defined Escargot

The Burgundy region became famous for escargot thanks to ideal soil and culinary innovation. Burgundy produces Helix pomatia, the prized snail species known for tender meat. Local cooks created the iconic garlic parsley butter that now defines escargot worldwide. This preparation became so influential that the sauce is still called Burgundy butter, even when used on steak or vegetables. Overharvesting later forced France to import most snails from Eastern Europe.

The Necessary Purging Step

Wild snails eat plants that can be toxic to humans, making purging essential. Before cooking, live snails are fed safe foods like cornmeal or lettuce for 3 to 7 days so they clear harmful substances from their systems. Farmed snails raised on controlled diets require little or no purging. This safety step is critical but rarely mentioned on menus or recipes.

How Escargot Is Properly Eaten

Escargot is served with specialized utensils: snail tongs to hold the hot shell and a small two pronged fork to pull out the meat. Diners twist the snail free, then soak up the remaining garlic butter with bread. The butter is often considered the best part. Using regular cutlery usually results in slipping shells and spilled sauce.

Which Snails Are Edible

Only certain land snails are eaten. Helix pomatia, the Burgundy or Roman snail, is considered the finest. Helix aspersa, known as petit gris, is smaller but widely farmed and commonly served. Both species are now protected in parts of Europe. Most escargot served in restaurants today comes from farms in Turkey and Eastern Europe.

Why Escargot Feels Shocking to Many

Escargot divides cultures more than palates. Many people who try it admit it tastes good, largely because of the butter and garlic. The texture is mildly chewy, similar to mushrooms or clams. Resistance comes from cultural perception rather than flavor. To the French, escargot is no stranger than oysters, while outsiders often see it as a culinary dare.